水停了

The above heading, translated directly into English, reads, "The water has stopped."  More precisely, there is no water in the dorm right now, and hasn't been since about 8:00 last night.  Apparently, they are re-doing the underground pipes somewhere, and as my roommate put it, "well, it's because there are a lot of wells in Harbin."  The major source of water here is not the river, apparently, (fortunately, or I would probably be glowing in the dark by now just by showering in it), but a series of underground wells.  My roommate also added, "Harbin is located on a plain."  Yes, but how does that explain a 15 hour (and counting) disruption of water service to the dorm, with no prior notice???  Argh!  Oh well.  My new plan of action is to do what Americans do when they lose water, and that is shower at the gym.

 

The weekend was fun, though - Friday night went out to eat at a local restaurant - highlight of the evening was one of my friends being served a bottle of "南波万" spring water.  For those who can't read characters, that's pronounced "Nanbo Wan".  As in, "We are Nanbo Wan!"  It is, we all agreed, the perfect name for the next Chinese boy band.

 

Saturday I slept in very, very late, then read a book, got some coffee, did some homework, and then wondered how it had gotten to be dinner time already.  One of the CET students was celebrating his birthday, so a group of about 15 of us headed out to dinner, and then to a local club which the Russians hadn't invaded yet.  It was fun!  The evening ended with me slowly falling asleep on a couch while my roommate played a riotous dice game involving the loser putting out a candle flame with their hand.  Apparently, it never got old, though I was wondering how they kept it up for so long - the tequila probably helped.  I still haven't found a Chinese translation for tequila - apparently it's a new enough import that it hasn't gotten an official dictionary entry yet.  Along with progress comes tequila... complete with salt and lemon!

 

Yesterday I went for a run, went clothes shopping at a local clothing market where EVERYONE was staring at me (maybe it was because I was wearing shorts, it being about 85 degrees out... weather finally changed!)  I kept hearing calls of "aren't you cold???"  No, I wasn't cold, because it was REALLY REALLY warm out!  grrr.  The highlight of yesterday was definitely the ultimate frisbee game, where I not only managed to catch it a few times, but also threw it in the right direction once or twice!  (I also threw it in the wrong direction a lot, but progress seems to be being made...) 

 

ok - off to class now.  more later!

cracking down (?) on piracy

Every evening, without fail, I get the weather report as a text message on my cell phone.  The weather reports in China (at least the ones that I've been getting) are quite different than the ones back home.  They tend to offer little tidbits of advice at the end, such as "Tomorrow the temperature will be quite variable.  Be sure to avoid eating spicy food." (I am not making this up).  "Tomorrow will be unseasonably chilly.  Be sure to wear warm clothing."  Today was a new one - after telling me the wind direction and temperature, the weather report wished me a "Happy International Intellectual Property Rights Day!" 

 

Very excited about it being Intellectual Property Rights Day, since that is what I'm studying here, I mentioned it to my teacher this morning.  He already knew about it, of course, and told me that in honor of it being Intellectual Property Rights Day, the police had raided the underground pirated DVD market across the street and seized boxes and boxes of DVDs to be crushed by steamrollers in front of television cameras, and broadcast on the evening news: "Harbin Cracks Down on Piracy!"

 

As much as I'm a fan of intellectual property rights, I was kind of upset by the news - I really like cheap, low-quality DVDs!  My teacher quickly reassured me, though, saying, "oh, just wait a few days, and it will be back."  And apparently "a few days" is actually overestimating time - I ran into one of my classmates this afternoon, who told me he had just gotten back from buying DVDs.  Confused, I asked him, "but didn't the police raid it yesterday?"  "Really?" he said.  "It looked just like it always does to me."

 

This is one of those times where I just know that I will never, ever understand this place!

making friends with frisbee

The highlights and lowlights of this week so far have both been closely connected with learning how to throw a frisbee.  Yes, I admit it.  I suck at frisbee throwing, which makes me both an object of incredulity and amusement, and it is only due to the incredible patience and good nature of my fellow students that anyone is still willing to play with me at all.  I'm terrible.  I mean, I try hard, and I can usually manage to catch the thing, even as it's rebounding off my forehead, but I still haven't figured out how to get it to go in the right direction.  I mean, it all looks so easy!  We were out on the athletic fields a few days ago, warming up while we were waiting for the ROTC-like cadres to finish marching back and forth.  Their leader, instead of watching them, was busy watching us throw the frisbee back and forth.  One of my friends noticed him mimicking our movements in a sort of "air-frisbee" like throwing motion, and invited him to join our group.  I've had people trying to teach me how to throw a frisbee for YEARS now, and this guy just picked it up just like that!  Of course, he was pretty inaccurate and wobbly at first, but we all just got the biggest kick out of playing frisbee with a Chinese drill sargent (if indeed that's what he was - he seemed to be too friendly for a drill sargent, and just kept talking on his cell phone all the time).

 

OK - off to run to class now.  I've also started running in the mornings this week - that combined with the frisbee games means that I've been hobbling around campus like a 90 year old woman - but it's SO nice to be outside enjoying the warmer weather!  (ok - it's about 45 degrees out right now and windy, but at least it's not snowing anymore!)  more later-

back in town!

I would just like to preface this post by saying that domestic Chinese air travel is really not as scary as everyone (well, not everyone, but a number of people) told me it was going to be.  Before I arrived at the airport, I had horrible visions running through my head of duct-taped Russian propjets arriving at the gate like in the movie "Major League." ("Hats for bats.  Keep bats warm..." etc.)  I was almost slightly disappointed to find myself in a very modern Airbus 320 complete with television screens over the seats.  I was able to watch both a Mr. Bean episode and a Tom and Jerry cartoon on the way to Beijing (really, the only problem was that when I returned to Beijing a week later, they were still showing the same cartoon).  Really, the only difference was that the descent seemed a bit more abrupt - American pilots give you about 45 minutes of warning before they land the plane, whereas it seems Chinese planes get the clearance from the tower and then say, "let's get this sucker down!" - ten minutes later, they're on the ground!  One small difference was the amount of talking done on the plane - I kept thinking that given how few Chinese people travel by plane (train stations are MUCH more crowded than airports), for many fellow passengers, it may be their first time on a plane.  And given how tightly the guy sitting next to me was gripping the armrest on takeoff, (almost as tightly as I was), and how it took him at least half an hour to open his eyes, and how no one on the plane started talking until after the plane landed... there just wasn't the same casual attitude towards flying that a lot of Americans seem to have.  Seasoned travellers are few and far between - there's no "that guy sitting next to you" who always tells you, "well, you think THIS turbulence is bad... I was on a flight one time where [insert overblown drama here] - well, compared to that, THIS is nothing!"  As for me, I just kept thinking "this is a new jet.  Who told the maintenance people how to service it?  What if there was a crucial mistranslation in the service manual?"  Leave it to me to worry about crucial mistranslations, but geez.  I've seen enough truck engines lying in bits by the side of the road to know how much the Chinese love disassembling machinery, analyzing it for awhile in groups of at least five, whacking it with a hammer, and then shoving it all back in to worry how they might react to a plane engine.  But in all seriousness, the flight went fine, and the engines purred along without a hitch.

 

Highlights of this week so far include playing frisbee with a bunch of fellow students (a very humbling experience - I can throw a frisbee with no problem, just nowhere near where I want it to go.  Need a LOT more practice!)  We picked up quite the audience on the soccer field next to campus where we were playing - we must have been quite the sight - there was even one very small dog who really wanted in on the action.  I think we're going to head out again this afternoon to play again - my muscles are kind of sore from yesterday, but I tend to get kind of stubborn about improving various skills (speaking Chinese, cooking, frisbee, etc...) - just need lots more practice.  If nothing else, hopefully I will come back from China knowing how to throw a frisbee!

 

One final note: this morning in "special class" we were learning about the Chinese political system.  The more I learn about the Chinese political system, the more I realize that China is governed less according to the Chinese constitution, and more according to the whim of the Chinese leaders, which just makes it all the more interesting.  We spent almost two hours today discussing the Chinese parliament, which meets once a year for fourteen days, and, according to the Constitution, has powers approximating that of the U.S. Congress.  The Chinese constitution guarantees all kinds of rights, rules, and regulations, which unfortunately only seem to exist on paper.  The difference between what is written and what is real is something that only the Chinese themselves seem to know - and even then, I've heard different things from different people.  My roommate told me last night that the Chinese president has an eight year term limit - despite the fact that no single president has ever governed for only eight years.  I asked my teacher how you would go being elected to the Chinese parliament (on paper at least, candidates are elected by the people, though in reality it's a pre-approved rubber-stamp ballot) - she really had no idea, though in theory you need the support of at least ten people... basically though, the Chinese parliament is invitation-only.  And also, almost completely ineffectual.

 

To give you an idea of how far the Chinese are removed from American-style politics, we were talking in class today about Nancy Pelosi (our teacher asked us about the gender imbalance in the American congress), and one of my classmates mentioned that she had just returned from a fairly controversial trip to the Middle East, where she met with a number of national leaders, not all (any?) of them particularly sympathetic to George Bush.  Upon hearing that her visit was controversial, the teacher followed up by asking if Bush had ordered her removal as House speaker upon her return.  "No!" we all said, "he doesn't have the right to do that!"  It just made me think... in China, there are no rights that the leaders don't have... but there are no protections either.  It's an absolute dogfight at the top - and a fairly sensitive one at that - which made my roommate ask me last night, "Why are you so interested in politics?  Why don't you read a book about the first Chinese emperor instead?"  as in: 2000 year old politics = OK.  Current politics = less OK.  But so much more interesting!!!

 

 

off on vacation!

I have two more exams left today, and then I'm hopping on a plane tonight for Beijing!  Vacation!  Hooray!!!  I don't know how much I'll be able to post from the road, so this may be it until I get back next week.  I'm going to be heading to Beijing, Xi'an, Pingyao, and Datong - really, really looking forward to getting out of Harbin (though I like Harbin, I really do, and it seems to have finally stopped snowing here, which is even better...) in any case, I won't be back until next Monday morning, so if I don't manage to get online before then, that's when the next post will be coming.  more later!

grrr... midterms

Just a quick post to say that my life has recently become centered around studying for midterms and getting ready for spring break - two things which are very difficult to do at the same time.  Part of me is really excited to get to go travel, and part of me is totally stressed out that I have to give a five minute talk on intellectual property rights tonight - in Chinese.  Also, part of me is really annoyed that I can't find a Chinese-language article about the recent decision by the US to file a claim against China at the WTO for failure to properly crack down on piracy in China (and also for their refusal to allow more than 40 foreign films to legally enter the country every year, which leads to such widespread piracy in the first place).  There are English language articles galore, but nothing I can find in Chinese.  OK - update.  I found an article on the head of the intellectual property rights ministry talking about how much progress China is making in fighting piracy, then googled his name and found an article on the current situation buried somewhere on page 5 of a local newspaper.  Basically, the Chinese reaction is that the Americans are totally unjustified for attacking them, as they're doing everything they can to crack down on piracy, and as an aside, most of the pirated movies now in China come from the United States (and not from enormous factories in Guangzhou, which I think is the more accepted truth).

 

Basically, the current situation is that if you want to watch anything good, you have to either buy it pirated or download it from the Internet.  Technically, watching "Friends" is illegal - but the fact that almost everyone here has watched at least one episode makes you fully aware of how widespread piracy is - and also, how much people like watching "Friends", regardless of nationality.  The US right now is attempting to make China cease its current level of cultural censorship, and open up its market to more imported American television, movies, and music, which the Chinese government is, as could be expected, hesitant to do.  If they were ever to go in the opposite direction, and vigilantly crack down on pirated DVDs and TV shows available on the Internet (meaning no more Prison Break, Lost, or Sex in the City) - there would be a revolution.  Seriously.  I need to start watching "Prison Break", because my roommate loves it, and most Chinese people I met seem to share her opinion.  I've never even seen one episode, which is what I get for spending all of my time studying Chinese, and not watching television.  If it weren't for Antiques Roadshow, I think I would just cancel cable altogether... but I can't miss Monday nights at 8:00 live from Tulsa, Oklahoma... yes, I realize how lame that is.  ok... and now back to studying.  Heading over to Hamamas this afternoon for a brownie sundae and a grilled cheese sandwich... vital ingredients for successful talk preparation!

brief update from China

Having been distracted from writing my research paper by someone inexplicably blasting Usher's "Yeah" right outside the window of the computer lab where I'm currently located, I thought I would give a brief update on my status.  I'm writing a 1500 page research paper (and the term "research" should be interpreted very loosely) on intellectual property rights in china - specifically, on copyright law.  It is rather ironic, actually, because I am discussing plagiarism while having the book open on my lap, and copying sentences out of it almost entirely word-for-word.  This is the way things work in China, though - you copy it from the book, because the book is right.  If you try to use your own words, you are quickly told by the teacher that your own words are incorrect.  How to be sure you use the correct words?  copy them out of the book.  Such is the way things go in China... but I still have 750 characters to go, and I'm running out of ideas fast.  ok - back to work now.  more later...

I bought plane tickets online!

Rule number one about China: nothing is ever straightforward.  Even if someone tells you something is straightforward, don't believe them, because it's not.  Take buying plane tickets online, for example.  Previously, I was resigned to the fact that in order to buy my plane tickets to Beijing next week, I was going to have to go to a travel agent (not wanting to have to call various airlines on the phone).  But then my one-on-two teacher told me that in China, it's now possible to buy plane tickets online.  I didn't believe it at first, but then it was confirmed by my classmates.  "Yeah - you can totally buy plane tickets online - with a credit card!"  Totally impressed, I got psyched up to navigate the whole new world of buying plane tickets online in China.

 

My first stop was the school computer center, where I found the flights I wanted.  Not wanting to enter my credit card number into a public computer, I waited until last night to complete the transaction - asked one of the guys on my hall if I could use his computer.  He agreed, though kept threatening that he was about to go get in the shower, and I had better hurry up if I didn't want to see him take off all his clothes - apparently the price for him letting me use his computer (for those of you who know him, this is one crazy Korean).  Regretting all the while that I hadn't brought my own computer with me, I quickly got to the part of the website where they were supposed to let you input your credit card info, only to discover (and I should have seen this coming), there were no credit cards, only bank cards, and only Chinese bank cards.  I switched websites (over to www.elong.com/, which is a great travel website), where I was firmly assured by said Korean that I could use my credit card.  Everything went smoothly with the reservation, I got my reservation number... and then it came time for payment.  Time for extreme not-straightforwardness: apparently, to use a credit card, you need to call the company and give them your credit card number over the phone.  They then email you a form which you print out and fax back to them with your signature.  Long story short?  I wound up paying in cash, but I'll tell you how.

 

Last night ended with me making a reservation and getting a confirmation number, without having to see anyone naked.  They sent me a text message to my cell phone saying that my reservation was being processed.  I returned to my room, where my roommate asked me how much I had paid for my ticket, and then told me I had paid too much (this is generally what my roommate says when I tell her what I paid for anything).  At 8:30 this morning, I woke up to a phone call from the company (eLong) in Beijing.  They asked me how I wanted my ticket delivered.  Though my original plan had been to go to their representative company in Harbin, my roommate and I couldn't find their address on the map (they're located on Red Army Street), so I asked them if they could send someone over to my dorm with the ticket.  No problem.  I also asked if I could give the person who delivered the ticket payment in cash (RMB 1700).  Also no problem.

 

Five minutes later, the representative company in Harbin called me to tell me they were sending someone over.  Two minutes after that, the delivery guy called me to tell me he was on his way, and would be there in half an hour or so.  I just had time to duck out to the ATM to get cash when at 9:20, I got a call from the front desk of the dorm, telling me a guy was here with my plane tickets.  I went downstairs, gave him the cash, he counted it, and gave me my tickets.  I should clarify here - these are not real tickets but e-tickets - what I got were the RECEIPTS for the e-tickets, with two official looking stamps, red stars and all, and printing that was about a half-inch off from where it should have come out ( i.e. nothing is in the column it should be in).  But the dates and times are right, my name and passport number are right, and it looks like I'm set to go!  hooray for buying plane tickets in China!

Chinese Men + In Lederhosen + Wearing Cowboy Hats = Fun Times!

This weekend I did a lot of things.  So many, in fact, that I didn't have time to write about them.  So here goes, in somewhat random order:

 

1.  Friday night, a bunch of us headed out to Hans Brew Pub, which was one of the more original dining experiences I've had in China.  It's a German-style brew pub located smack dab in the middle of northeastern China - I don't know who thought it up, but it's a great idea!  Basically, you walk in, pay RMB 38 per person (approx. $5), and then men wearing lederhosen (no kidding!) and cowboy hats will arrive with giant skewers of meat and carve it onto your plate.  There was steak, chicken, pork, squid, and pineapple all on my plate at one point or another.  it was great!  Plus, they brewed their own German-style beer, which was RMB 12 a pitcher (not quite $2.00).  Some of the best food I've had in a while, plus random German decor.  will definitely be going back!

 

2.  Saturday morning I helped organize a trip out to the 731 museum, which doesn't really belong in a lighthearted blog post.  The Japanese army operated a secret germ warfare base out of Harbin during their occupation of Manchuria - from 1938 until 1945.  They blew most of it up after they lost the war, but the one building that remained was turned into a museum.  It was a very, very chilling place to visit - reminded me all too much of German concentration camps, though on a smaller scale - the same red brick buildings, the same rail lines and crumbling buildings.  The captions were in both Chinese and English, which was nice, though I'm always wary of the propagandistic nature of Chinese versions of history - there seemed to be a lot left out, and the accuracy of what was included I'm not so sure about (did the US commit germ warfare in Korea?  the museum's final point was that the US army used the research done at the 731 site to commit biological and chemical attacks against the North Korean population during the Korean war.  That I'm not so sure about...)  It was definitely worth a trip to see, though, if only to further understand the long-running animosity between China and Japan.

 

3.  Saturday night I watched Vanilla Sky, followed by three episodes of Fresh Prince of Bel Air, so I would stop getting creeped out by the movie.  V. weird.

 

4.  Sunday morning I did homework, then in the afternoon headed to the post office and went SHOPPING!  Unfortunately, I found out very quickly that it is very difficult to find clothing in my size, and wound up buying a blue hoodie sweatshirt at Puma.  it's super comfy! 

 

5.  Yesterday... what happened yesterday?  nothing very exciting.  Oh - it snowed again on Saturday.  Yesterday I did laundry and went to the gym.  The treadmill really, really got me yesterday - I try to avoid being shocked as much as possible, but sometimes the static electricity builds up so much I can feel the hairs rise up on my arms, and then when I accidentally brush the sidebar on the treadmill - ZAP!  I swear, the one yesterday was just out to get me...

 

ok - off to do more productive work.  more later!